Food is my obvious first love, and following behind, at a very close second, is music (particularly Italian). Food and music are intertwined in my world; there is always music on, keeping me company as I cook (it’s not that unusual to see me pick up my wooden spoon and pretend it’s a microphone as I sing) and serenading me as I eat. I’ve even drawn comparisons between food and music as art forms (take a listen on my podcast).
Because of my profound passion for song, I follow the annual Sanremo Festival religiously (insert gratitude for specialty cable channels and internet streaming here). In brief, Sanremo is a television song contest held in the Teatro Ariston, in the city of the same name, which is also dubbed La Citta’ dei Fiori (the city of flowers). It is organized and broadcast by the RAI network and will run from February 7th to the 11th.
This year I thought I’d pay an edible homage to the festival by sharing the culinary background of both the region and some of the artists who will be in gara (in the competition) and ospiti (guest performers).
Sanremo is situated on the coast of Liguria and its cuisine is naturally dominated by seafood, prepared simply, to enhance its freshness. Some of the city’s signature dishes include:
Sardenaira – a pizza stuffed with tomato sauce, onions, anchovies, oregano, Taggiasca olives (a DOP cultivar in the region), capers and garlic
Brandacujun – also known as baccala’ mantecato alla Ligure, which is an antipasto of cod, potatoes and olives
Ravioli di Borragine – borragine is a wild herb with a slightly bitter flavour used for the filling of the Ravioli with ricotta cheese
Coniglio alla Sanremese – rabbit, cooked and served with a sauce enriched with olives, walnuts and herbs
Torta di Badalucco– also known as Fugazza de Baauccu is a simple cake made with lemon zest, pine nuts and raisins
Now that we’ve covered off Sanremese specialties, I’ll turn my attention to my most anticipated participants of the 73rd edition of the Festival:
We’ll start with Gianni Morandi, who is actually this year’s co-host, but an icon of Italian music and past Sanremo participant (last year he placed third). Gianni hails from Bologna, in the region of Emilia-Romagna. This city is best known for Ragu’ alla Bolognese (Bolognese sauce), mortadella, tortellini, culatello, Parmigiano Reggiano, balsamic vinegar of Modena and Lambrusco wine.
Next up, Anna Oxa who is from the City of Bari in Puglia. Bari is famed for its focaccia and panzerotti, along with a dish that has become a personal favourite of mine, patate, riso e cozze (an oven baked blend of rice, potatoes and mussels). Other Barese specialties include, sgagliozza (pieces of fried polenta), orecchiette con cime di rapa (orecchiette with broccoli rabe) and of course loads of fresh fish.
Flashback to the 90’s with the participation of Articolo 31 (J-Ax and DJ Jad) who are from the metropolis of Milano, in the region of Lombardia. Also from this city is indie-pop duo Coma_ Cose, pop-rock artist Gianluca Grignani, pop band Moda’, pop artist Tananai and musical guests, Italian rapper Fedez and urban hip-hop artist Mahmoud. Typical tastes from this northern Italian city include, risotto alla Milanese (saffron risotto) which is often accompanied by ossobuco (cross-cut veal shanks braised with vegetables, white wine, and broth) or cotoletta alla Milanese (a breaded and fried veal chop). Other famed foods are Cassöeula (a hearty casserole of pork and cabbage) and the quintessential Christmas cake known as panettone.
The other half of last year’s winning duo, Blanco will be returning as a guest with Mahmoud. Blanco too is from the region of Lombardia, specifically the city of Brescia whose signature dishes include: casoncelli (half-moon shaped ravioli pasta filled with meat, parmesan cheese and aromatic herbs, seasoned with lots of butter flavored with sage), Taragna (polenta enriched with a local specialty cheese known as bagoss) and sparkling Franciacorta wine.
The duo of Colapesce and Dimartino return this year making their way north from their birthplace of Sicily (Colapesce is from Solarino -near Siracusa, while Dimartino is from Palermo). Foods hailing from these two southern cities include: arancini (rice balls), caponata, pasta with sardines, pasta alla Norma, Pani Ca Meusa (a sandwich made from lamb spleen and lungs), cannoli, cassata and granita. From Valledolmo, a town neighbouring Palermo are guest performers La Rappresentante di Lista. Velledolmo is most recognized for Siccagno tomatoes which have recently been praised for their powerful antioxidants, and tenerumi soup (tenerumi are the leaves of the zucchini plant).
Pop songstress Eolodie travels to Sanremo from the capital city of Rome, as do singer-songwriter Giorgia, pop artist Ultimo and musical guests Maneskin. The most tantalizing dishes of the eternal city include: pasta alla carbonara, pasta all’Amatriciana, tonnarelli cacio e pepe, coda alla vaccinara (oxtail stew), carciofi alla giudea (deep fried whole artichokes) and maritozzi (leavened sweet buns freshly stuffed with lightly sweetened whipped cream).
Pop singer Marco Mengoni is also from the Lazio region, from the city of Viterbo. You will likely find Marco munching on foods such as acquacotta (a dish made of dry homemade bread, vegetables such as chicory, potatoes, tomatoes, and onions, wild mint, and extra-virgin olive oil), thick, coarse spaghetti known as lombrichelli served with rich, heavy sauces, and trapezoid shaped, hazelnut biscuits known as tozzetti.
Rap artist Madame hails from the northeastern city of Vicenza, Veneto. This city has residents and visitors salivating over Asiago cheese, white asparagus, baccalà alla Vicentina (stockfish, an air-dried variety of fish, cooked with onions, olive oil, sardines, milk, cheese and parsley and is served with polenta) and grappa.
Controversial singer/songwriter Achille Lauro is a son of fair Verona in Veneto. Here you will find distinct dishes such as: Pastisada de caval (horsemeat stew that is slow cooked for up to three days) served with polenta or gnocchi, risotto all’Amarone (traditional risotto cooked with a generous amount of Amarone wine) and nadalin (a Christmas cake similar to pandoro but crispier and more compact).
Also making a guest appearance at Sanremo, pop rock star Francesco Renga. Renga, though residing in Brescia, was born in Udine, Friuli-Venezia Giulia. This is where you will find the famed frico (fried Montasio cheese that is local to the area) along with brovada (fermented greens, similar to sauerkraut which pair well with the frico), pan di sorc (a sweet bread made from wheat, rye and corn flours enriched with fennel seeds, raisins, dried figs, cinnamon and walnuts) and prosecco.
Last but not least, on the guest stage is none other than my pop prince, Nek. This singer-songwriter calls Sassuolo, in the region of Emilia-Romagna home. Samplings from Sassuolo are the same as what I referenced in Morandi’s menu at the beginning of this post; Sassuolo though, has a special drink native to the town, called Sassolino, which is an anise-flavored liqueur whose flavor is derived from star anise.
So, there you have my list of musicians and munchies. I hope you will tune in for all the musical moments of Sanremo and perhaps even turn up the heat to cook up some of delectable dishes inspired by the artists I’m looking most forward to seeing. Buona Visione and Buon Appetito!
