I found myself at the foothills of Mt. Etna recently thanks to a promotional campaign called I Love Fruit and Veg from Europe. This program is designed to promote the seasonal purchase and consumption of European Fruits and Vegetables, including organic produce and products with European quality labels. There are five cooperatives highlighted under the campaign, one of which is La Deliziosa.
O.P. La Deliziosa is a producer organization located at the base of Mt. Etna in Sicily. It is founded on two core principles: love for the territory and respect for the local agri-food tradition. This cooperative is comprised of 112 members who cultivate and area of 1,600 hectares growing 1000 citrus fruits 5000 prickly pears and other various fruits. La Deliziosa was founded in 1988 and is managed by the Bua family whose aim is to enhance the local territory with its commitment to producing high-quality fruits and vegetables.
Our visit found us among thousands of catus trees that bear the unique fruit. For those who might not be familiar with Fichi d’India (prickly pears), they are the edible fruit of the flat-stemmed spiny cacti. The fruit itself comes in three varieties, yellow, red and white.
The yellow cultivar, also known as Sulfarina, which is the most widespread due to its productive capacity. The ripe fruit has a yellow skin with tinges of green, while the colour of the flesh is a rich yellow-orange. It tastes distinctly sweet and has a soft, succulent consistency.
The Red cultivar, known as Sanguigna, is one of the most highly appreciated varieties, due to among other things the ruby red colour of the skin and flesh of the perfectly ripe fruit. It tastes sweet and the flesh is crumbly and has less seeds than the other cultivars.
The White cultivar, or Muscaredda, is the most prized of the three varieties. When the fruit is ready for picking its skin is green, which is often taken as a sign that it is not yet ripe. Despite its colouring, it has a remarkably sugary taste and crunchy flesh.
The flesh of prickly pears is soft and juicy, contains seeds and has a sweet taste similar to that of watermelon. You can eat prickly pear flesh raw or cooked. It is often turned into juice (which is part of the production at La Deliziosa) or cooked down into jams, syrups and sauces. It is even turned into sorbet or granita. The cactus leaves are also edible as was demonstrated to us by Giovanni Bua. The spined skin is peeled away leaving a crisp, green flesh that tastes like a cross between a cucumber and green pepper with a hint of citrus. The flesh can be used raw in salads and salsas or boiled, grilled, sautéed, or steamed.
The plant was first brought to Europe in 1943 by Christopher Columbus where it found a favourable climate in the Mediterranean area. It thrives in the semi-arid climate of the southern Italian region of Sicily and its powerful roots are strong enough to break up volcanic soil allowing it to become widespread in the Mt. Etna area. In 2003, the fruit was awarded PDO status (Protected Designation of Origin) under the name Fico d’India dell’Etna.
Prickly pears typically grow with flat, rounded cladodes (also called platyclades) containing large, smooth, fixed spines and small, hairlike prickles called glochids that detach from the plant. The fruit has a thorny skin that is brushed after picking to make fruit ready to be consumed. Picking and brushing the fichi d’India is a completely manual process which requires a great deal of labour (which can be a challenge for growers).
There are two harvesting periods for fichi d’India. The first begins in August, with the harvesting of what is known as the Agostana variety or Primofiore (first flower) as it grows after the first flowering of the plant. The second harvest begins in October with the late fruits known as Scozzolati or Bastardoni, which grow after a process called scozzolatura (by removing the first set of flowers in late spring, the plant redirects its energy towards a second flowering and fruit development, leading to a later harvest of larger, more flavorful fruit).
In terms of their nutritional value, the fichi d’India boast many benefits. The ancient Aztecs used fruit and plants for its countless therapeutic and healing properties. The fruit is high in fiber and is rich in vitamins (A, B and C) and minerals (iron, potassium, magnesium, calcium ad phosphorus). Their high mineral content aids with the prevention and treatment of osteoporosis as well as combatting inflammation, and their high water content (over 80%) makes them the ideal hydrating snack during the blistering heat of summer.
Fichi d’India are also rich in symbolism. They represent resilience because of their ability to thrive in harsh environments and strength because they can overcome adversity. In many cultures, the cactus is seen as a symbol of vitality, life, renewal and regeneration due to its ability to store water to sustain itself in the desert. Finally the prickly pear is believe to represent Divine Protection because of its thorny skin.
It was truly remarkable learning about this prized fruit firsthand in the fields from its extremely proud producer, giving me the opportunity to grab life by the thorns. Buon Appetito!
