In Italy’s south lies a peninsula within a peninsula, the region of Calabria. The toe of the boot as it is often referred to, has an incredible geographic makeup. A mountainous landscape of hill-top towns, juxtaposed against dense forests, overlooking a dramatic Mediterranean coastline.
Calabria, much like Sicily, has been shaped by its contact with conquering cultures; Arabic, French, Spanish and Greek. It is this combination of unique topography and history that have shaped the cooking methods and left an indelible imprint on the flavours that hail from this region; flavours that were showcased as part of the fourth annual edition of CENTItalia in a Taste of Calabria.
This week-long food festival featured workshops, masterclasses and tasting dinners designed to celebrate regional food and wine excellencies. These events were highlighted by the presence of three visiting Calabrian Chefs, Michelin Star Chef Antonio Abbruzzino, Chef Pino Barbino and Chef Giovanni De Luca.
The culinary excellence of Calabria was celebrated in four-courses at The Local Restaurant at Centennial College last week, with a mouthwateringly memorable feast prepared by the three chefs. Each plating which beautifully represented southern Italian delicacies, was complimented by a selection of Calabrese wines and liqueur.
Our first course feature was one prepared by Chef Luca Gatti of Centennial; Funghi Arrostiti (roasted mushrooms, truffles and roasted garlic breadcrumbs). Wild mushrooms are abundant in the forests of Sila, Aspromonte and Pollino. What many might not know is that both black and white truffles are also predominant in Sila (truffles are typically associated with Italy’s north). This earthy starter was paired with Spadafora Terranto Rosso Calabria IGT, a wine that is medium ruby in colour; with aromas of plum, blackberry, raspberry, anise and pepper. It is a dry, medium bodied wine with flavours of red and black fruits, earth, spice and smoke with structured tannins.
Photo Courtesy of Vanessa Galle Photography and Design Inc.
The next course was prepared by Chef Antonio Abbruzzino, Calabria’s first Michelin Star Chef. Chef Abbruzzino originates from Catanzaro and spends his time between Ristorante Abbruzzino in Calabria and Il Dandy in San Diego California. This humble chef is known for transforming local ingredients into culturally reflective cuisine. This was exemplified in his pasta course, Tortelli di Pasta China (tortelli stuffed with braised beef cheek ragu, and confit tomato, set a top Parmigiano foam) a lovely and innovative take on classic stuffed pasta. This dish was paired with iGreco Cata Gaglioppo 2016, a red wine made from the Gaglioppo grape which is grown primarily in Calabria. It has a velvety roundness with a burst of spicy red fruits and chocolate notes.
Photo Courtesy of Vanessa Galle Photography and Design Inc.
Chef Giovanni De Luca created the main course of Tonno alla Tropeana. Chef De Luca comes the province of Cosenza and has an extensive 30-year culinary career dedicated to the mastery of the craft using quality ingredients. De Luca’s dish was the perfect marriage of mare e monte (sea and countryside) with a pancetta wrapped tuna set over potato cream and Tropea onions, with bread crisps. Again, a dish paying homage to some of the region’s best foods, tuna from the Mediterranean Sea, potatoes from Sila and the sweet and flavorful Tropea onions which have been awarded DOP status. These onions by the way made their way over to Canada in Chef Giovanni’s suitcase. For this course the wine pairing was the Librandi Critone Bianco Val di Neto 2017, a fresh and floral Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc blend. This crisp and refreshing medium-bodied wine is perfect accompaniment to fish.
Photo courtesy of Vanessa Galle Photography and Design Inc.
And for the sweet finish, a beautiful Bocconotto prepared by Cosentino, Chef Pino Barbino, who is the President of the Cuochi Cosentini Association and a board member of the Unione Regionale Cuochi Calabria. Chef Pino’s exquisite shortbread pastry filled with cherry marmalade floating in fragrant pastry cream was the perfect closing confection. This traditional holiday dessert was paired with a delightful cocktail of Fiamma Bianca (spiced liqueur), Vecchio Amaro Del Capo (famed Calabrian digestif made from 29 herbs bitter orange, orange, liquorice, mandarin, chamomile and juniper), white cranberry and apple-cherry cider.
Photo courtesy of Vanessa Galle Photography and Design Inc.
Every wonderful morsel of this Chefs dinner truly emphasized the delicacies of the region and certainly put Calabria on the culinary map. Buon Appetito e Viva la Calabria!
