In late summer, dark burgundy bunches of Concord grapes are prevalent in the bounty of many Italian gardens and the produce shelves of markets. This slightly tangy cultivar is most often used to make jams and jellies as well as juice. One of my favourite uses for them, however, is in a seasonal sweet known as Torta Bertolina (Bertolina Cake).
This rustic and simple cake, hails from the town of Crema, in the northern Italian region of Lombardia. Its origins appear to date back to the 19th century when uva fragola (strawberry or concord grapes) first made their way to the peninsula from America. The torta’s unique name is shrouded in mystery; one legend suggests its moniker comes from the names of Bertoldo and Bertoldino, father and son farmers who likely grew the said grapes, while another story implies it was named by its bakers, two sisters from Trescore Cremasco nicknamed the benedète because they were unmarried and sustained themselves with their small bakeshop. The story goes on to say that their “Turta Bertulina” became one of their most sought-after treats turning it into the signature dessert of the region.
How much truth lies in either of these two tales is unknown, but the fact remains that the beauty of the Bertolina, lies in the seasonality of its key ingredient (uva fragola is only available for a short time from September to October) and the simplicity of its recipe. It evolved from a very humble bread dough of the cucina povera, dotted with uva fragola to a more luxurious version, using flour, eggs, and sugar. The recipe varies from baker to baker and family to family however, the grapes remain constant, making it a cherished confection; so much so that it is celebrated with an annual sagra (festival) in Crema.
This year the Sagra della Bertolina celebrated its 45th edition. The end of summer festival is held in Piazza Duomo in the town of Crema. The famed dolce is celebrated with a local vendors market, food stands, cultural activities, and a competition to crown a champion cake maker.
If you happen upon a basket or pint of uva fragola at your local market, you may wish to give this grape sweet a try (recipe follows). Buon Appetito!
Torta Bertolina
(recipe adapted from Sonia Peronaci)
Ingredients:
500 grams of concord grapes
175 grams of 00 flour + additional to flour the grapes.
175 grams of corn flour
1 medium egg (at room temperature)
2 medium egg yolks
200 grams of sugar + additional for sprinkling
220 grams of sunflower seed oil
200 grams of whole milk
16 grams of baking powder
1 pinch of salt
Optional: powdered sugar for final dusting
Directions:
Preheat oven to 340 degrees F and line a 24cm springform pan with parchment paper.
Carefully wash the strawberry grapes and place them on a clean cloth to dry. Once dry, toss them with a small amount of flour to coat and prevent them from sinking into the batter.
Using an electric mixer or a stand mixer with a whisk attachment, combine the egg yolks and sugar and beat until frothy. At this point, still beating, gradually add the milk and then the oil.
Sift the flours mixed with the baking powder then add into the mixture until combined. Carefully stir in, half of the floured grapes.
Pour the batter into the pan then pour the remaining grapes evenly over top. If desired, sprinkle with sugar.
Bake for 50 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the centre of the cake comes out dry and clean. Remove from the oven and allow to cool. Once cooled, transfer to a serving dish, dust with powdered sugar and enjoy.
